Let’s talk about beauty

The beauty industry was something that, to a tiny, chubby, poor girl with limited artistic talent, seemed rather unapproachable. There seemed to me a certain limit to beauty, and if you go beyond it, it’s simply not beauty anymore, but becomes humdrum or “fucking weird” and while beauty is subjective, even if you openly deny the traditional ideas of beauty in your particular culture, you still know what they are.

Thankfully, even something seemingly as set and unchanging as the ideas of beauty get a facelift, as over the years we’ve seen ethnic faces in the crowd become the norm of any fashion show, and plus-size models take the runway and the covers of magazines. The acknowledgment of the beauty of the transgendered in huge “traditional” places such as Barneys New York.

Read More

Jo Malone: Wild Fig & Cassis and Earl Grey & Cucumber Review!

These are some of the Jo Malone reviews I promised in my perfume adventures post! Jo Malone was a brand founded by a woman named Jo Malone in 1994 who sold it to Estee Lauder back in 1999, and stayed chair and creative director until 2006. She has her own fragrance company that started in 2011 named Jo Loves and as far as I can tell as maintained the simplicity of the fragrances of her first brand, as the website graphics are very similar, as are the fonts used online and on the physical packaging.

Wild Fig & Cassis
Wet: almond, fig, coconut, some wood like a combination of pine and mahogany, cherry
Dry: that wood combination, fig, leaves, amber

I usually get a lot of “coconut!” exclamations when I spray this one for other people, which is always confusing to me because I smell more almond and fig than that round, fatty scent of coconut. I can see it sometimes, when I’m not smelling too hard, but it’s an astringent coconut, obviously cut with something; perhaps the cherry Fragrantica mentions? It might not be coconut to me, and I don’t know what cassis is supposed to smell like, it’s a very creamy and woody scent, quite warm and comforting. For the most part, I smell the components of a tart I like; fig on a combination of cheese leftover from yesterday’s fondue, with a little clover honey. And that fades off after a while, and I’m suddenly in the woods just thinking about food.

Earl Grey & Cucumber
Wet: bergamot, myrtle, tea, clotted cream
Dry: bergamot, floral, tea, cedar, vanilla, clotted cream, cucumber insides

Maybe it’s cheating if I already knew earl grey is made with bergamot, but that first breath was all juicy, spicy acidity tempered with sweetness, though the cream was present and promising. On the dry down, it’s still effervescently floral and bright, but the beeswax, vanilla and musk have made an appearance as a few tablespoons of cream. I’ve sprayed this for others and everyone so far has correctly guessed “earl grey” and no one at all has guessed “cucumber” and I felt like I was missing it as well for a while until I realized that I was looking for the stiff, outer skin of English cucumbers, when I should perhaps be looking for the watery innards. So I looked for it. I can’t say I definitely, absolutely figured it out, but I believe it’s there, masquerading as tea water. Which is weird now that I’ve found it, but it explains why I think this scent’s colder than Wild Fig & Cassis.

Now I know Jo Malone is known for the emphasis on layering and creating your own signature scents, which is partly why I gravitated towards these two for the first review. Wild Fig & Cassis warms up the Earl Grey & Cucumber when I put them together on my skin, while the acidic, floral, and aquatic notes cut through all the creaminess. It makes the earl grey seem a little more authentic, since the fig supports peppery notes that a tea drinker smells when they put their head in a jar of earl grey. The downside is that it is almost too sweet, and I lose the figs and the almonds to the assertive earl grey, and they stay in the background. As it dries, the woody cassis and the cedar notes start to turn to powder, which may be totally fine with some people, but I’m not a fan of powdery scents. Still, the scent is still juicy by the 3rd or 4th hour despite the wood making it a little dusty.

Jo Malone Rain Series – White Jasmine and Mint

Gather quickly
Out of darkness
All the songs you know
And throw them at the sun
Before they melt
Like snow

– Bouquet, Langston Hughes

Jo Malone Rain Series
White Jasmine and Mint

Wet: strong jasmine, citrus (like a lime juice and vodka), freshly chopped peppercorns, mint
Dry: jasmine, cream, nutmeg, back hint of mint

While I expected this to be floral-heavy, it’s actually surprisingly spicy, and reminds me of a mojito, or a vodka and lime juice a fraternity brother once made for me while we were all…relaxing. The jasmine stays strong throughout, but it’s warmed by spicy notes and unexpected creaminess, and then cooled off just slightly by the mint at the end which strokes the back of the throat. My boyfriend hates mint, but enjoyed this mix, and I have to agree.  I’ve always loved a nice jasmine, and White Jasmine and Mint doesn’t disappoint.

This is a really interesting scent, fitting for both summer and winter days, and perhaps a little mismatch for the autumn. I can equally see someone wearing this while snow drifts overhead, or on a beach lightening the scents of the sea. I can’t wait for winter to start.

Jo Malone Rain Series – Wisteria and Violet

And then he flew as far as eye could see,
And then on tremulous wing came back to me.
I thought of questions that have no reply,
And would have turned to toss the grass to dry;
But he turned first, and led my eye to look
At a tall tuft of flowers beside a brook
– The Tuft of Flowers, Robert Frost

Jo Malone Rain Series
Wisteria and Violet

Wet: violet, magnolia
Dry: wisteria, violet, mahogany, cucumber

This is a warm rain smell. The first hit was intensely violets and really no wisteria at all, and in fact the patchouli was more present coloring the violets and making it all remind me more of violets and magnolias warmed under the sun than violets and wisteria in the rain. As it dried though, and I started to sniff up and down the place I applied, the wisteria came through softly, and the punch of violet faded into a more harmonic place along with the patchouli. And it became more aquatic, and more like rain and seems to end like Rain and Angelica.

I can see this on a taller woman whose favorite color might be dark orchid, and who aces those interviews like no one else at a law firm or something similarly high-powered career. It’s certainly feminine, but less girly than Rain and Angelica. It’s mature.

Jo Malone Rain Series – Rain and Angelica

As promised!

When the painted birds laugh in the shade,
Where our table with cherries and nuts is spread:
Come live, and be merry, and join with me,
To sing the sweet chorus of “Ha, ha, he!”

– Laughing Song, William Blake

Jo Malone Rain Series
Rain and Angelica

Wet: citrus, floral, vetiver, a little pepper
Dry: vetiver, pepper, citrus, floral, water

This is definitely a more feminine leaning fragrance. A big punch of floral, tempered little by the warm, almost powdery vetiver and bright lime in it. In fact, the last two really just serve to highlight the angelica on me. Very floral heavy. And actually less aquatic on my skin than Black Cedarwood and Juniper. Definitely more dewy than rainy in my head, but it’s perfectly pleasant.

It’s not quite for me because it’s a little too sweet. The lime fades away too fast for me to really enjoy the juxtaposition. It’s still a lovely scent, and I can see this on someone whose favorite season is spring and also stirs honey into their tea.

Jo Malone Rain Series – Black Cedarwood and Juniper

Review time!

I love you as the plant that never blooms
but carries in itself the light of hidden flowers;
thanks to your love a certain solid fragrance,
risen from the earth, lives darkly in my body.
– Sonnet XVII, Pablo Neruda

Jo Malone Rain Series
Black Cedarwood and Juniper

Wet: juniper, spice, tree bark, cedar
Dry: juniper, spice, tree bark, water

I love how woody this scent starts out, and am a little disappointed it falls to the background after a few minutes. Although the distinct cedar dies out on the dry-down for me, it leaves a warmth that I feel like is necessary to round out the sweet, watery juniper. Apparently there’s chili in this as well, which likely supports that point. I can’t stop sniffing it. It smells like how I want my sheets to smell after a night in, and a scent I could get used to on my pillow at night. Quite seductive, at least to me.

I like it on myself, but I would absolutely love this scent on a guy. It’s warm and sweet without being the masculine go-to sandalwood which I feel gets overplayed, and it’s just dark enough that there’s depth and passion implied, but light enough for day wear.

Surrender to Chance! (More perfume reviews!)

Surrender to Chance is an online fragrance decant and sample selling website that has some great ready-made sets for certain occasions or off of note preference, time of day, and other characteristics! I just purchased their 12 Months of Scent sample pack and I’m stoked to share my feelings on them :3

Let’s get to it!

  •  January: Ormonde Jayne Ormonde Women

Wet: pine, dill, cucumber, vetiver, pepper
Dry-down: pepper, pine, wood, jasmine, amber
From afar: pine/wood, violet, jasmine, amber
Lasts: Medium length, three obvious hours and then it fades off.

It’s very fresh and dry and soothing. It’s what I’d think of sophisticated without being too “old.” It may be a few years more mature than myself though, but that’s perfectly fine. It’s spicy, and I like the vetiver a lot. It’s actually fairly masculine for a feminine fragrance, and that suits me just fine. It’s almost less sweet than the Versace Blue Jeans for Men, which is my go-to day scent.  It’s definitely more mellow and more flowery than Blue Jeans.

I’m a big fan now. I think it’s flirty, but flirty in the awesome conversationalist, half-smile, bedroom eyes sort of way. It gives off an air of intelligence if that makes any sense. It seems like it would translate well to a business office or to a low-key night out.

  • February: Jo Malone Blue Agave & Cacao

Wet: musk, the chocolate, vanilla
Dry-down: taro, cardamom, bubblegum
From far: nothing really; musk and bubblegum
Lasts: Medium length, two obvious hours and then only when you’re really up close

It’s definitely sweet, and quite interesting. I only get the cacao at the beginning when it’s wet, and then it’s completely overtaken by other lighter and sweeter scents. Fragrantica says this should start with citrus, but I can’t detect any on my skin. It smells like warm bubblegum or taro bubble tea. It’s a pretty bouncy, fun smell, and a little like a slightly dusty room on a hot day.

It’s a nice scent. It’s fun and tasty and cute, and I can definitely see someone with a non-confrontational and cheery personality pull this off. It’s too sweet for me right now in the winter, but I would consider wearing it to the beach.